Coorg Itinerary - Enchanting waterfalls - Chelavara Falls

Once abbey was done, the maps showed 90 mins of journey to reach Chelavara waterfalls. The waterfalls is situated nearby Napoklu and need to travel further south. The map took us via Virajapet highway with deviation in middle. Throughout the journey, the beauty of paddy fields, heavy clouds, lush green forests entertained us. As we got closer to destination, the area turned darker due to thick forest cover.

The waterfall route is narrow and hardly any people presence. The roads are manageable but need to be cautious during heavy rains. Fortunately, it was only light drizzle coupled with sunlight during our visit. After reaching destination as pinned by google, we couldn't spot any waterfall. Our past heuristics enlightened us to drive further from the pinned location since the mobile signal wouldn't be available. After drive for around 300mtrs, we suddenly spotted a waterfall. The rickety board confirmed that it was Chelavara waterfall.

The plunge waterfall is visible sideways but no front views possible. Few visitors went overboard and thus loosing life. This prompted authorities to close the waterfall visit to the base. One can only view from distance which is heavily fenced. This is how shabby authorities are. Just close the location rather than improving situation. Unlike other prominent falls of Coorg district, this place has limited visitors. Not even a single vendor was present at this location. 

A narrow and rugged trail for around 100m leads to viewpoint which is kind of cross section view. The front view is not possible since visit is prohibited. From distance, we can partially view the front portion of waterfall since the area is blocked due to dense forests and coffee plantations. Oh yes! There are coffee plantations here too which implies urban population do exist.

Not much activity could be carried out here since the views are limited and there are no facilities for visitors. Here is short pulse from the visit!

Coorg Itinerary - Enchanting waterfalls - Abbey Falls

Break monsoon is the right time to visit the sassy waterfalls of western ghats. There is beauty coupled with energy. The surrounding greens add additional charm to the scene. The break monsoon also helps us to fully enjoy the roaring waterfalls without rain interruptions.

Our next mission to explore prominent waterfalls of Coorg district. Day-2 was reserved for this purpose. Western ghats means waterfalls and mountain peaks. It doesn't add any value if you do not visit the waterfalls of western ghats during monsoon season. Monsoon has just taken break and it was right time to explore the glory of waterfalls. Subsided rains and relatively dry path made it easy for us to closely enjoy waterfalls. The water flow was still significant since monsoon just slowed down.

Since most of these distant from each other, we decided to reserve the day exclusively explore waterfalls and perhaps wind up visiting Raja-seat during evening hours. Following were the waterfalls in our list and we explored them successfully.

(i) Abbey waterfalls

(ii) Chelavara waterfalls

(iii) Irpu waterfalls

(iv) Mallalli waterfalls

I know there are much more in Coorg, but current list had only these four. Out of four, Mallalli waterfalls was scheduled for next day during our return journey to Bengaluru. Except for irpu, all of the waterfalls were maiden visit for me. To my better half and kids, all of them were new!

Our first target was nearest abbey waterfalls. A short waterfall tucked inside the mountains, sandwiched between coffee and rainforest. We started early at 9AM and winding drive led us to waterfall in matter of 30 mins. Despite being near to Madikeri town, the hilly road makes it difficult to drive with  significant pace. We parked the vehicle in parking space. The parking area is wide charged at 50/- for LMVs. The place was crowded but not to an extent that would thwart smooth visit. Being long weekend, the rush was expected but I was happy to see relatively thin rush. Perhaps, the recent rains pre-empted few tourists visiting the ghat areas. A decent walk with smooth inclination of steps led us to the roaring waterfalls. The walk way is maintained well and surface was rough to prevent skidding. Since the rains had subsided, the slippery was restricted only to edges.

A 200-300mtr walk led us to roaring sight of waterfalls. There was great energy thanks to recent rains. The heart too roared with joy beholding the beauty of western ghats. It was pitch dark and hot. The dense jungle shrouded the region with darkness. The roar of waterfall was deafening and it was difficult to speak amongst ourselves! The area is completely fenced to prevent people from resorting to adventure. The elevated platform provides us a closer look of waterfall but the views are heavily fenced. The hanging bridge provides face-to-face view of waterfalls but the bridge was dilapidated and no signs of repair. I am not sure if they allow us to stand on hanging bride during peak seasons even if bridge would have been sane.

Apparently, abbey is plunge waterfall with short cascades a distant away. For the visitors, only plunge is visible clearly. At one side waterfall is covered by coffee plantations and other side dense jungles.

A decent stay of 30mins, we headed back towards parking area. On the way, I heard many endemic birds namely vernal hanging parrot, hill myna, yellow browed bulbul and many more. The roar of waterfalls was complemented by chirping birds. It has been long overdue thanks to zero holidays & work.

Here is short video from visit

Coorg Itinerary - The Historic mystical Omkareshwara Temple

Raja seat was completely packed and simultaneously dense fog made us to move to next scheduled destination which was divine omkareshwara temple. We found a parking place and started towards sanctum. 

This temple is believed to have mosque like architecture. Apparently the temple looks like primitive Hindu architecture and not influenced by other religion. 

The temple was surrounded by significant crowd predominantly tourists like us. Devotees are required to wear traditional attire to enter temple which was not strictly followed as per our observations. The temple hosts a large pushkarini (pond) facing the sanctum. That is attractive part here. Kids were excited after watching colorful fishes in the pond. Public entry to the pond is prohibited. The pond is completely fenced and the entrance gate is locked. Perhaps, the pond is used only by priests. Unsure if pilgrims are allowed to take dip during auspicious days.

Temple area was well illuminated giving it glittering look. Further away in parallel lies the elevated platform which has stairs at both ends. The ruler during the era was using the platform to witness the daily rituals of temple from distance reason being described further. The entry to elevated platform is restricted. The stairs leading to platform are filled with debris to curb human ascension. The Anjaneya temple garden is well maintained and beautiful. The primary omkareshwara temple has traditional and relic look owing to restricted renovation. The absence of renovation underscores the graveness of demon which arose from Brahman assassination. It is difficult to circumambulate around main shrine due to non-maintenance. The area was slippery too since it was monsoon season.  Omkareshwara temple is not renovated due to reasons cited in subsequent paragraphs.

Temple Timings

Omkareshwara temple construction dates 200yrs ago. There is mystical story behind temple construction as narrated by temple priest of Anjaneya Temple. At that time, Madikeri never existed and was surrounded by dense forests. Its only after British rule, the pristine forests were culled and coffee plantations mushroomed. The then ruler of the area had disagreement with Brahmin mantri and King killed Brahmin mantri. The killing of Brahmin is believed to be sin of highest order by Himdu texts. The death of brahmin resulted in brahma rakshasa torturing king in forest. To ward off sin, he made digbandhana to brahma rakshasa residence by installing shivalinga on top of brahma rakshasa location. King wasn't entering the temple rather sat on the platform constructed in front of temple to witness daily rituals. He was defeated by British on 1833.

Entry to elevated platform which is blocked

Over the time, area was developed and became a bigger town. MadiKeri gets its name by residing brahmins who were engaged in religious activities. Madikeri refers to - street of people who maintain cleanliness. Madi refers to cleanliness in general. Madikeri was surrounded by Brahmins initially but over the time they dispersed to other locations.

During renovation the main sanctum is never touched since Brahma rakshasa is believed to have 800yrs term and currently it is at 200. Touching sanctum means dismantling digbandhana of brahma rakshasa which may result in chaotic scenes as per archaka (temple priest). Even though age of Brahma Rakshasa is only 800yrs, nobody would dare to touch the sanctum as per him. There are always bickering, blithering and quarrels in the temple signifying the effects of Brahma rakshasa as per him. 

Only Anjaneya temple is renovated as of now. Anjaneya temple is located adjacent to the main shrine. This temple is isolated from omkareshwara temple. The Anjaneya temple is well renovated and depicts stark contrast to Omkareshwara temple. Ajaneya temple also hosts a wider well maintained lawn at its front.

Once done with darshan of Lord Omkareshwara and Lord Anjaneya, we headed towards lodge and concluded our first day itinerary. Except Raja-seat, other places were executed without hassle. The photography is restricted inside primary premises but exterior captures are liberal. I was too tired to capture exterior video and hence post is just pictorial.

Bengaluru Winter - Warm debris Averted shadows!

We are almost closing in on winter with Sun sliding to Makara Rashi. The transit of Sun to Makara Rashi astrologically signifies the shift of Sun trajectory towards North. Even though actual shift happens from December 22, in Hindu calendar, January 14/15 timeline where Sun transits to Makara Sankranthi is taken as reference point. From this period till next 6 months is consider auspicious for sacred ceremonies.

Before we wind up the winter, here are some winter vibes from Bengaluru Streets. Even though I personally not fond of street dogs, sometimes their demeanor is photogenic. I capture occasionally when I feel interested provided they maintain same pose. Most of the times, they either shy away or start barking. Here are pictures when the dogs were steady or lazy or were unconcerned during my capture.

The eternal real estate activity in Bengaluru city is boon to these street dogs. While the sound of construction, concrete dust , never ending blockage of roads pose high inconvenience to public, the dogs enjoy the stay over the rubbles and debris. It keeps them warm during winter. The direct sunshine over these debris is an added advantage to doze off for a while! The dappled areas are usually occupied by these canines!

You see them seated on warm debris averting shadows during winter. Its reverse during summer. They love the concrete base much since it keeps them warm. On other hand, they love moistened gravel during summer to escape from heat.

These puppies were warming up under peeping sun. They posed for my shoot as they saw me hoping that I would feed them :-) They were disappointed but not lost hope may be. Authorities spend hefty tax payers money to sterilize street dogs. All of them are swallowed by corrupt officials mostly. Nothing ever happens. Poor puppies looked strangled by cold winds.

This guy was napping on flag post in mid day under the sun. As soon as I started taking pictures, he woke up and yawned. Perhaps this is the season where Sun is in high demand!

One more guy from fuel station guarding his territory under Sun. Upon seeing an offender, he swiftly ran probably for short brawl. Fuel station employees generally feed these dogs. At nights, we humans too get stuck amidst the street dog brawls. Out of control, they frighten us or even bite us. Being non-vaccinated, their bites are highly harmful to humans.

While I love capturing their expressions, I am not big fan of street dogs nor pet animals. Street dogs I have strong disliking because they threaten kids and humans even in broad daylight for no reason. Even walking along residential streets during bright day causes anxiety mainly due to street dogs. I have strong disliking towards street dog lovers as well since they just support the dogs but do not possess sentience to their menace. The adamant street dog lovers do not even budge to proposed solutions as well. They just want general public to peacefully embrace the menace. Woke is everywhere!

Coorg Itinerary — Obeisance to Goddess Kaveri

The next stop as scheduled was towards Talakaveri temple. Talakaveri is birth place of river Kaveri and is located atop the hill nearby Bhagamandala. The ascension to the hill starts from Bhagamandala with entry fee. While driving on the flyover at Bhagamandala, we were blessed by magnificent view of Bhagandeshwara temple. Since there was less time, we started to Talakaveri first.

As usual, maps took us via Mangaluru road and later deviation towards Bhagamandala road. It was mix of bumpy and smooth drive with intermittent showers. Even though distance was 40kms, the curvy roads makes it impossible to cover the distance in less than 90mins. It was around 3:30PM when we reached Bhagamandala. The Sun was bright, clouds were scattered. Doesn’t give any sign of monsoon season. The only positive vibe was lush greenery and roaring rivers. The fly-over towards Talakaveri is complete and operational. Now the vehicles need not wait for floods to recede to cross the main road.

We reached the entry point to Talakaveri where authorities charge Rs.50/- for LMVs. The hill climb towards Talakaveri is about 8kms resembling ghat section hike. The road is good condition and contains multiple view points. 

After climb of 20mins, we reached Talakaveri with fog covered all around. The crowd was minimal and area was serene. There was silence all around.

Talakaveri temple consists of Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesha. One platform down, lies the sanctum of Goddess Kaveri where she originates. The pond in front of sanctum is pristine with river water. The depth of pond is clearly visible due to its purity. Pilgrims are not allowed to step into the pond I believe. Only during Kaveri Teerthodbhava, pilgrims are allowed looks like. A drum is kept near the sanctum where pilgrims can fill Kaveri water to containers. The kaveri flows down to shivalinga nearby before making her way to further paths.

Tranquil stay of 30 mins, we left to Bhagamandala temple with final prayers. 

On the way, we took some scenic photographs of Bhagamandala overlooking from ghats. The Bhagandeshwara temple is clearly visible from the viewpoint. Also look at the scintillating landscape from break monsoon light. Absolutely gorgeous nature!

Here is short video from visit.