Coorg Itinerary - Enchnating waterfalls - Irpu Waterfalls

Once Chelavara visit concluded with stocked up delight, we set for last waterfall of day which was none other than "Irpu Waterfalls". I have special place in my heart for this beauty. This would be my second visit. The last visit was nearly a decade back and that too in winter. The break monsoon visit would be unique one since I would be beholding roaring Irpu. The Irpu drive was further south of Chelavara which would consume 90 more minutes. The thunderstorm rains were active in South Coorg and we experienced it on the way to Irpu for few kms. That was intense rain for around 5-10kms enroute. The Sun popped up after we travelled 25+kms. That is the strange part of thunderstorm season. Fortunately, we did not experience rains during our stay in Chelavara falls which helped to us thoroughly enjoy the waterfalls.

We reached Irpu waterfalls which is protected under Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary. The parking space is ample but filled with slush being monsoon season. Considerably less visitors here as well. It was noon and distant thunder portended afternoon storms. The area had received about 50mm rains couple of days which is enough to thwart your visit. Fortunately, clouds were still distant and we quickly moved to waterfall area.

An entrance fee needs to be paid to reach waterfall. It takes around 10-15mins walk to reach the waterfall area. The initial stretch consists of crossing dilapidated hanging bridge across the stream following course of waterfall. Its ironical that despite paying entrance fee, the infra is still pathetic. We were scared to walk over it since the bridge was ill-maintained. The last stretch is bit of uphill with stairs. Also the ground moisture with dead leaves made it slippery. Fortunately, no leech infestation or they did not climb us :-)

It was mesmerizing to view the adrenaline of Irpu during monsoon season. Absolute nature spectacle dancing through multiple cascades. Except the primary cascade, the other advantage is that one can easily rejoice in waterfall safely even if the water current is considerably high.  The primary plunge is risky to reach when velocity of current is high. Its possible that authorities would allow when force reduces during winter. The kids too played for a while dipping their foot in water for a while. Since there wasn't any backup clothes, we refrained from dabbling in water.

All about falls:

The river Lakshmana Teertha originates from Brahmagiri hill range, cuts through the pristine rainforests jumps from cliff of approximately 51m in form of charming Irpu waterfall. From here, it flows north-west in direction and merges with Rama-Teertha river and finally joins River cauvery at Mysore district. This river cuts through Nagarahole National Park as well before reaching Cauvery. The fascinating Malabar banded peacock butterfly is commonly found near waterfall. The Brahmhagiri trek starts from this waterfall itself.

It was enchanting to watch Irpu again. The waterfall has multiple cascades and its topography helps people to rejoice safely in water. Possibilities of mishaps are rare unless people lose control. The forest guards also request the visitors to safely play in water and keep the forest clean.

We had spent decent time in Irpu before heading to Coorg town. Since there was much more time left in day, we spent additional hours munching in eateries. The quality is OK but they serve in large quantities costing high price which was surprise. Every tourist location is place for extortion propelled by local authorities. Fortunately, we took just one plate of Fried Rice which was enough to feed all of us. There was no stock of ice-creams or refrigerated items due to electricity outage from past 3 days as per vendor. There wasn't a hint of mobile network too! It started raining in midst of food consumption which made us to to shift from umbrella table to concrete covered seating. The rain was moderate and lasted only for few minutes. The intensity wasn't matching the roars of thunder. Fortunately, our visit had concluded and no worry of rains :-).

I took a short nap for 20mins odd before driving back to coorg town. It was pleasant visit and always enticing. Here is memory from our visit!

Coorg Itinerary - Enchanting waterfalls - Chelavara Falls

Once abbey was done, the maps showed 90 mins of journey to reach Chelavara waterfalls. The waterfalls is situated nearby Napoklu and need to travel further south. The map took us via Virajapet highway with deviation in middle. Throughout the journey, the beauty of paddy fields, heavy clouds, lush green forests entertained us. As we got closer to destination, the area turned darker due to thick forest cover.

The waterfall route is narrow and hardly any people presence. The roads are manageable but need to be cautious during heavy rains. Fortunately, it was only light drizzle coupled with sunlight during our visit. After reaching destination as pinned by google, we couldn't spot any waterfall. Our past heuristics enlightened us to drive further from the pinned location since the mobile signal wouldn't be available. After drive for around 300mtrs, we suddenly spotted a waterfall. The rickety board confirmed that it was Chelavara waterfall.

The plunge waterfall is visible sideways but no front views possible. Few visitors went overboard and thus loosing life. This prompted authorities to close the waterfall visit to the base. One can only view from distance which is heavily fenced. This is how shabby authorities are. Just close the location rather than improving situation. Unlike other prominent falls of Coorg district, this place has limited visitors. Not even a single vendor was present at this location. 

A narrow and rugged trail for around 100m leads to viewpoint which is kind of cross section view. The front view is not possible since visit is prohibited. From distance, we can partially view the front portion of waterfall since the area is blocked due to dense forests and coffee plantations. Oh yes! There are coffee plantations here too which implies urban population do exist.

Not much activity could be carried out here since the views are limited and there are no facilities for visitors. Here is short pulse from the visit!

Coorg Itinerary - Enchanting waterfalls - Abbey Falls

Break monsoon is the right time to visit the sassy waterfalls of western ghats. There is beauty coupled with energy. The surrounding greens add additional charm to the scene. The break monsoon also helps us to fully enjoy the roaring waterfalls without rain interruptions.

Our next mission to explore prominent waterfalls of Coorg district. Day-2 was reserved for this purpose. Western ghats means waterfalls and mountain peaks. It doesn't add any value if you do not visit the waterfalls of western ghats during monsoon season. Monsoon has just taken break and it was right time to explore the glory of waterfalls. Subsided rains and relatively dry path made it easy for us to closely enjoy waterfalls. The water flow was still significant since monsoon just slowed down.

Since most of these distant from each other, we decided to reserve the day exclusively explore waterfalls and perhaps wind up visiting Raja-seat during evening hours. Following were the waterfalls in our list and we explored them successfully.

(i) Abbey waterfalls

(ii) Chelavara waterfalls

(iii) Irpu waterfalls

(iv) Mallalli waterfalls

I know there are much more in Coorg, but current list had only these four. Out of four, Mallalli waterfalls was scheduled for next day during our return journey to Bengaluru. Except for irpu, all of the waterfalls were maiden visit for me. To my better half and kids, all of them were new!

Our first target was nearest abbey waterfalls. A short waterfall tucked inside the mountains, sandwiched between coffee and rainforest. We started early at 9AM and winding drive led us to waterfall in matter of 30 mins. Despite being near to Madikeri town, the hilly road makes it difficult to drive with  significant pace. We parked the vehicle in parking space. The parking area is wide charged at 50/- for LMVs. The place was crowded but not to an extent that would thwart smooth visit. Being long weekend, the rush was expected but I was happy to see relatively thin rush. Perhaps, the recent rains pre-empted few tourists visiting the ghat areas. A decent walk with smooth inclination of steps led us to the roaring waterfalls. The walk way is maintained well and surface was rough to prevent skidding. Since the rains had subsided, the slippery was restricted only to edges.

A 200-300mtr walk led us to roaring sight of waterfalls. There was great energy thanks to recent rains. The heart too roared with joy beholding the beauty of western ghats. It was pitch dark and hot. The dense jungle shrouded the region with darkness. The roar of waterfall was deafening and it was difficult to speak amongst ourselves! The area is completely fenced to prevent people from resorting to adventure. The elevated platform provides us a closer look of waterfall but the views are heavily fenced. The hanging bridge provides face-to-face view of waterfalls but the bridge was dilapidated and no signs of repair. I am not sure if they allow us to stand on hanging bride during peak seasons even if bridge would have been sane.

Apparently, abbey is plunge waterfall with short cascades a distant away. For the visitors, only plunge is visible clearly. At one side waterfall is covered by coffee plantations and other side dense jungles.

A decent stay of 30mins, we headed back towards parking area. On the way, I heard many endemic birds namely vernal hanging parrot, hill myna, yellow browed bulbul and many more. The roar of waterfalls was complemented by chirping birds. It has been long overdue thanks to zero holidays & work.

Here is short video from visit

Coorg Itinerary - The Historic mystical Omkareshwara Temple

Raja seat was completely packed and simultaneously dense fog made us to move to next scheduled destination which was divine omkareshwara temple. We found a parking place and started towards sanctum. 

This temple is believed to have mosque like architecture. Apparently the temple looks like primitive Hindu architecture and not influenced by other religion. 

The temple was surrounded by significant crowd predominantly tourists like us. Devotees are required to wear traditional attire to enter temple which was not strictly followed as per our observations. The temple hosts a large pushkarini (pond) facing the sanctum. That is attractive part here. Kids were excited after watching colorful fishes in the pond. Public entry to the pond is prohibited. The pond is completely fenced and the entrance gate is locked. Perhaps, the pond is used only by priests. Unsure if pilgrims are allowed to take dip during auspicious days.

Temple area was well illuminated giving it glittering look. Further away in parallel lies the elevated platform which has stairs at both ends. The ruler during the era was using the platform to witness the daily rituals of temple from distance reason being described further. The entry to elevated platform is restricted. The stairs leading to platform are filled with debris to curb human ascension. The Anjaneya temple garden is well maintained and beautiful. The primary omkareshwara temple has traditional and relic look owing to restricted renovation. The absence of renovation underscores the graveness of demon which arose from Brahman assassination. It is difficult to circumambulate around main shrine due to non-maintenance. The area was slippery too since it was monsoon season.  Omkareshwara temple is not renovated due to reasons cited in subsequent paragraphs.

Temple Timings

Omkareshwara temple construction dates 200yrs ago. There is mystical story behind temple construction as narrated by temple priest of Anjaneya Temple. At that time, Madikeri never existed and was surrounded by dense forests. Its only after British rule, the pristine forests were culled and coffee plantations mushroomed. The then ruler of the area had disagreement with Brahmin mantri and King killed Brahmin mantri. The killing of Brahmin is believed to be sin of highest order by Himdu texts. The death of brahmin resulted in brahma rakshasa torturing king in forest. To ward off sin, he made digbandhana to brahma rakshasa residence by installing shivalinga on top of brahma rakshasa location. King wasn't entering the temple rather sat on the platform constructed in front of temple to witness daily rituals. He was defeated by British on 1833.

Entry to elevated platform which is blocked

Over the time, area was developed and became a bigger town. MadiKeri gets its name by residing brahmins who were engaged in religious activities. Madikeri refers to - street of people who maintain cleanliness. Madi refers to cleanliness in general. Madikeri was surrounded by Brahmins initially but over the time they dispersed to other locations.

During renovation the main sanctum is never touched since Brahma rakshasa is believed to have 800yrs term and currently it is at 200. Touching sanctum means dismantling digbandhana of brahma rakshasa which may result in chaotic scenes as per archaka (temple priest). Even though age of Brahma Rakshasa is only 800yrs, nobody would dare to touch the sanctum as per him. There are always bickering, blithering and quarrels in the temple signifying the effects of Brahma rakshasa as per him. 

Only Anjaneya temple is renovated as of now. Anjaneya temple is located adjacent to the main shrine. This temple is isolated from omkareshwara temple. The Anjaneya temple is well renovated and depicts stark contrast to Omkareshwara temple. Ajaneya temple also hosts a wider well maintained lawn at its front.

Once done with darshan of Lord Omkareshwara and Lord Anjaneya, we headed towards lodge and concluded our first day itinerary. Except Raja-seat, other places were executed without hassle. The photography is restricted inside primary premises but exterior captures are liberal. I was too tired to capture exterior video and hence post is just pictorial.