Saturday, May 29, 2021

Mandaragiri Hills and Lake, Tumkur District

02 April 2021

Mandaragiri hill was in our list from quite long time. The beautiful rock hill situated near Tumkur is pilgrimage centre of Jainism. The lake overlooking from hill is yet another attraction. This Good Friday, we planned to visit this well-known place and it turned out to be Good Travel Friday despite initial hiccups.

One of my son complained of stomach pain early in morning which slowed our plans for a while. Initially, we were sceptical of travelling under hot sun which would dehydrate and aggravate stomach ache. Fortunately, he soon recovered in couple of hours. The travel plan remained unabated. Our actual schedule was 8AM but due to hiccups, it got delayed by 2hrs. It was 10:15AM when we started. Being holiday, the city traffic was relatively sparse. Barring the traffic jam at Jalahalli cross, we had smooth drive till Bangalore-Pune National Highway. The toll gates too were relatively less crowded which enabled us to sail through within shorter time. Complete journey was smooth despite the radiating Summer Sun. Weather was dry and temperatures are soaring. Even before reaching destination, we had guzzled nearly a litre of water.

The last 1.5kms deviation from highway was also nicely laid but narrow. There are no clear road signs to reach the place. The map is bang on target. It was 11:45AM when we reached the Mandaragiri hills. We were excited to see the stairs leading to the Jain temple and hoped to start as early as possible. The designated parking area comes with an entry cost of Rs.40/-.




We walked till the stairs from parking area. It is also possible to park near stairs and start climbing. We were not aware of that fact due to which an additional 300mts had to be walked. The other scepticism was if our 4 years toddlers would make it to summit or not. Those apprehensions were eventually wiped out by enthusiastic kids! It was exactly 12:00PM when we outset our climb. The steps are carved out in granite hill are not even. Few places have lesser height while few steps are steep. At few locations, the stairs are steep. We took intermittent breaks to enjoy the nature surrounding the hill and also to rest for a while. Within 15-20 time-frame, we had climbed those 420 steps and ready to explore.




The hilltop primarily consists of multiple Jain temples which are worshipped on daily basis. The priest everyday climbs the hill at morning and descends during 5PM. The hill looks to be operation till 6PM. The temples are being renovated from community donations which includes assistance from Dharmastala temple chief Dr.Veerendra Haggade. Even the temple outskirts are being beautified with traditional Jain architecture. 3 shrines located atop rock Hill. The primary shrine sees a traditional temple pillar. The shrine has fabulous carvings at the ceiling of navagraha deities. The wooden pillars inside the shrine echoes the antique traditional houses of landlord. The interiors of shrine now has fresh glossy look smeared with  touch-wood and oil paints. The other two shrines are simple and well maintained.


The major attraction from summit is none other than lake which overlooks from hill. I was surprised to view the lake filled with considerable capacity during summer. Priest informed that check dams helped to increase retention capacity of lake. We descended the hill from the other side of climb to have closer look. A mud road leads to the lake which we planned to explore later.




Apart from lake, the mystical boulders standing over the hill was mesmerising sight. After a brief exploration of surroundings, we guzzled yet another litre of water. The kids were extremely thirsty which resulted in finishing additional litre of water. It was sweating as well. Due to continuous blow of cool wind, the midday hike at 12PM did not seem to be as strenuous as predicted. The radiating Sun was still unbearable. We had carried cap for kids to offset the might of Sun. On the other hand, me and wife, had no protective cover to beat the blistering Sun.




The descent was extremely easy. Make sure you do not loose control. Hardly 10 minutes if I calculated. 





We walked towards snack shop nearby and savoured tasty Madhur-Vada and Dry-Jamoon to temporarily douse the hunger. The details of snack shop are at the bottom of post.


Once done, we visited the temple near parking area which hosts statue of Jain Teerthankara. The temple needs to be visited with bare foot. We were not interested to visit the temple since path was infested with sharp stones and intense heat made it impossible to walk bare foot. The other attraction was dome shaped structure which the clerk mentioned as house of chairman.


The next destination was the lake itself. A drive for nearly 1km through bumpy muddy road, we reached the lake shore. That was truly majestic view. The view would be extraordinary during Sunrise. I expected to spot few aquatic birds here but was disappointed. The intense heat would have prompted birds to stay in their nests. I saw couple of egrets but not much apart from them. The lake front is not secure for playing due to lack of protective guards. We just stepped on the water for a moment to feel the coolness amidst bristling heat. After relaxing at lake shore for few minutes it was time to leave for Bangalore.


On the way, we had ordinary meal at Namasthe-Bengaluru restaurant. The restaurant is grand in look but meals was not up to hotel's physical appearance. The menu also looks expensive. The meal feedback is ordinary which is priced at Rs.105/-. We resumed our journey to Bangalore with dissatisfied tummy. One more hour of drive, we reached home tired.

The place and visit:

The place is excellent and worth the visit. Please visit during early mornings to enjoy the Sun raising over the lake. The summers should be avoided due to intense heat and parched vegetation. The rock hill does not get heated due to its implicit property. Similar phenomenon we saw during Lepakshi visit. The monsoon season around August-September would be best to enjoy the verdant nature. The place does not receive rainfall like coastal areas. Hence no need to worry about slippery path. The winter season also worth the visit due to reduced radiation. The marble flooring atop the hill is nasty. It is example of flawed engineering I feel. The marble floor gets heated up quickly due to Sun heat. It was impossible to walk over the marble flooring. The presence of carpet at isolated locations are bit relief but still not perfect. Hopefully the renovation committee has additional plans to construct roof or cover area with non heating elements.

Food option:

A small vegetarian snack shop called Chandrakanta canteen is located near parking area. They serve cool-drinks, ice-creams and selected eateries. The  selected eateries during our visit was rice-sambar, chitranna, madhur-vada, idly-vada. Sweets include badushah, dry/syrup jamoon and holige. Apart from routine food option, the shop also offered spicy snacks made up of puffed rice like churmuri, tomato masala etc.. Note that this shop is open only during weekends or government holidays when visitor count is high. If you have plans to visit during working days, please plan your food. The prices are also reasonable. We paid Rs.10/- each for Dry-Jamoon and Madhur-Vada.

Small vendors also sell heat saviours like cucumber, cane juice, tender coconut and seasonal raw mangoes.

Reaching the place:

Google maps should be enough. Quite easy to reach from deviation at Bangalore-Tumkur highway.

Toilet:

A public toilet is constructed at the base which is ill-maintained. There are no additional charges but ill-maintenance renders it completely useless. Bank upon the toilets adjacent to petrol bunks or restaurants!

To conclude, please to do not trash the place and maintain cleanliness near throughout especially lake area. Respect the religious sentiments.

A short video as usual at end of post


Thursday, May 27, 2021

Shri Uma-Madhukeshwara Temple, Banavasi, UttaraKannada

Yet another post from our UttaraKannada itinerary. This time from eminent temple town at Banavasi. Hope you enjoy the the architecture splendour from Kadamba dynasty.

22 December 2019

Adi Kavi Pampa has exuberantly described Banavasi in his poems and scripts. The temple town of Banavasi is famous for the Uma-Madhukeshwara temple located at heart of town. The Kadamba dynasty which is believed to be first kingdom of Karnataka has constructed this artistic temple. It is believed that subsequent empires including Hoysalas too have modified/renovated the temple. The temple's architectural splendour is impeccable. This post is to jot-down our experiences from maiden visit and guide the enthusiastic people who are yearning to visit the temple. The other details and historical importance of temple is affixed here as photograph which was snapped at temple premises

Uttara Kannada is unique district of Karnataka which encompasses coastal, hilly and plain regions. On the way to Sirsi from Haveri, I noticed a deviation to Banavasi which was reading 32kms. The place was bookmarked to visit during our stay at Sonda but with pinch of scepticism. Sirsi was 20kms distant and from there Sonda is around 14kms. My calculation was a simple addition. Consequently, it would be cumulatively 60+kms to reach this place from Sonda. The apprehensions wiped out once maps showed entirely different route from Sirsi which was roughly 25kms. That means max 40kms from Sonda. I was elated and to my joy, even the family members showed enthusiasm to visit this historical place.

The day was amiable to visit Banavasi. It was Ekadashi which means as per Hindu calendar, the religious activities were limited even in Sonda Mutt. That gave us free time to wander to nearby places and first choice was undoubtedly Banavasi. We started early and the drive was easy past Sirsi. Even though the roads were not wide enough, they were in good condition & well maintained. It was mesmerizing to behold the transforming landscape from ghat to plains in just span of 25kms. The last 10kms is simply wondrous with sugar cane, areca-nut plantations and rice fields flanking the highway. A lush azure large lake just before Banavasi looks flamboyant. I never knew that lake also is famous tourist attraction at Banavasi. We missed to visit it. More details at end of post.

An hour of comfortable journey led us to the temple street. We parked car at empty space and ready to explore. Being December holiday season, the temple was packed with tourists & school children seeking education tours. The first view of the temple is enticing and transfixing. Truly engineering epitome from historical India era. What a structural marvel it is. The entrance hosts a large couchant bull (basava) scuplted out of stone facing the majestic Shiva. The entrance of Garbagruha hosts beautifully carved mandapas. One mandapa had depiction of three lokas of Hinduism namely Patala (Hell), Bhoomi (earth) and Swarga (heaven). As we enter the garbagruha, the large shivalinga  draws us to realm of devotion. Such an energetic view of Lord shiva. Rudrabhisheka was being performed when we visited the temple. Ganapathy and Mahishamardhini shrines are also attached to the garbagruha. After having the darshan of Lord Shiva, we began our further exploration activity.





The shanta narasimha temple, the Uma temple and Madhukeshwara temple are of primary importance here. In sanskrit, "Madhu" means honey. The shivalinga colour resembles that of Honey and hence the name of temple. Apart from primary temples, myriads of shrines surrounding temple. The pillars are strong and quite artistic. Here is picture which depicts complete history of temple. Hope you read through it.




Here are some pictures from Banavasi which I received from Father-in-law which includes picture of Lord Madhukeshwara



It is easy to miss the Varada river meandering nearby temple. The overlook gives a majestic view of the river. The shore of the river can reached by climbing down the steep steps (about 50 steps). Apart from absorbing the nature, there is not much activity to enjoy here. It is mesmerizing that this river originating from western ghats of Shimoga district, passing through coastal plains of Banavasi and finally flows through plateaus to merge with Tungabhadra river.

Conclusion

It took nearly 90 minutes to explore the temple. This temple is worth multiple visits. Such an eye-catching monument which India needs to preserve.

Photography

No fees levied for entrance and photography. For DSLR enthusiasts, carry wide-angle fast lens (f/2.8) with image-stabilization.

No restrictions for photography/videography. People do take pictures of sanctum as well despite the placard inhibiting photography/videography (even I took some videos). Fortunately, authorities did not object as well.

Other places to visit nearby

Do not miss Gudnapur lake. A vast fresh water lake serving irrigation purpose. Apart from the alluring landscape, this place has religious importance. It has shiva temple nearby which people visit.

Food

Plenty of food options in town. Nothing to be worried about.

Route

Easy to reach using maps. Better to visit during winter/summer (November to April) season. Rainy season may not be convenient to explore.

Apologies for meagre number of pictures. Here is detailed view of temple in video form which contains the visuals described in blog. I wish to visit the place once more when the pandemic ends along with Gudnapur lake.

Bird Series - Indian Grey Hornbill

26 May 2021

Lock-down has become stringent but what?! Surprise blog on bird series! Sorry, don't call police, I have not breached any norms. I am still locked inside house with movements restricted to apartment premises. But nature gave a surprise during our evening walk at apartment terrace! It was none other than Indian Grey Hornbill. The surprise visitors invigorated the day of burnout and provided sequel for "Bird Series" post :-).





As we were strolling at apartment terrace, fortunately we spotted the bird couple with unique physique flying close to us. One of the bird perched nearby tree top (not so near) and not sure of other. The second one would have been lying somewhere nearby. Looks like they needed a break. When examined the picture from camera after capturing, I realized it was Indian Grey hornbill which have habitats in cities as well. They have greyish plumage with red iris (from picture). The casque is shorter when compared to birds from Western Ghats. I have not seen their food habits so cannot comment on that. Looks like they are omnivorous.



Hope to nature bestows with such surprises often. Wish to see the bird again and have closer snap :-). The perched bird flew away after fleeting stay of 10 mins. Here is short clip.



Check out my Bird Series blogs here : NKBirdSeries

Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Cyclone Taukate Sky Preview

14th May 2021

The cyclone named as Taukate is rapidly brewing and moving towards Gujarat coast. There was confusion if the cyclone would move towards Oman coast or Gujarat coast. Now the trajectory of cyclone apparently clear which suggests that Taukate will kiss west coast of India before making landfall over Gujarat coast. Coastal Karnataka is also gearing up to face the brunt of cyclone. If not for full scale, there is prediction of gusty winds with torrential rains. The cloud build-up and gradual acceleration of wind speed are felt in coastal Karnataka. The easterlies are replaced by strong westerlies. Now the atmosphere in Bangalore looks similar to one seen during onset of monsoon season. The wind and cloud direction is also changing here in Bangalore. The cyclone is also believed to push for early onset of monsoon thanks to strong west moving winds. Cyclones are harbinger of devastation. Hope that would not be in large scale.

Here are pictures from today's sky gazing. The thick clouds even though seemed beautiful did not precipitate. The towering clouds were fascinating to watch!







A timelapse to feel the mood of day!

Sahasralinga, Sirsi Taluk, Uttara Kannada District

Yet another place visited during UttaraKannada itinerary in winter 2019. Here is a short post on Sahasralinga

21 December 2019

Sahasralinga is well known pilgrimage centre of Karnataka situated at Bhairumbe village in Sirsi Taluk of Uttara Kannada district. Bounded by thick forests, lying amidst the pristine Shalmala river, Sahasralinga lures devotees from various corners of Karnataka. Thousands of lingas are carved in boulders over the river and hence the name. It is quite spiritual to watch and spot the lingas here. 

Uttara Kannada is known for wondrous nature. Situated near Hulagola village of Sirsi Taluk, the ancient marvellous pilgrim place Sahasralinga lies in lap of nature. The shivalingas carved over the boulders of river is mesmerising sight for every pious person. Shivalinga is omnipresent here at Sahasralinga. You tend to spot shivalinga at every eye sight. It feels like the river performs continuous Abhisheka on shivalinga and thus rendering the water divine.



Here is translated version of script painted on walls.

Surrounded by unique flora-fauna, invaluable medicinal plants, Sahasralinga is excellent tourist location. Having mythological, religious and natural importance, Sahasralinga attracts pilgrims from distant places during Shivaratri & eclipse time.

The pilgrimage centre has importance from ancient times. It is believed that Shri Rama & Seeta had travelled to this place during Tretayuga. Also Pandavas during exile had installed shiva-lingas during sojourn here. Consequently, the shalmala river is also known with name DevaraHole and PandavaraHole.


Around 16th century AD, the local king Arasappa Nayaka at the behest of Swarnavalli Matha to overcome infertility is believed to have carved shiva lingas over the boulders of Shalmala river and performed pooja to these lingas. As a fruit of this effort, the king was blessed with progeny. Later from same dynasty King Sadashivaraya also believed to have carved additional shivalingas here. Apart from Shivalingas, one can spot Nandi sculptures also which were carved during the regime. The large bull sculpted out of river rock is one of primary attractions at Sahasralinga. 


The next attraction here is the hanging bridge constructed across the river to facilitate passage for village dwellers. Only 25 people are allowed to pass at a time due to limited capacity. However, we could see even bikers riding over the bridge.

When to visit

During winter season (from November to May). Monsoon season is not at all advisable due to brimming river. It would be impossible to spot ShivaLingas in turbulent weather and gushing water.

Route

Quite easy to visit from Sirsi. The GPS is quite accurate. Unfortunately the mobile signal is not available, hence I suggest you to fix the route in Sirsi and start the drive. At times, even GPS signal may be lost. Seek help of locals if you spot one :-) (sparse human presence in dense jungle).

One needs to take Sirsi-Yellapura route if travelling from Sirsi. Nominal parking fee is levied from visitors (guess Rs.20/- for cars)

From Sonda, an interior route for 4kms leads parking arena near hanging bridge. From here, its a short walk to actual spot. There is no parking fee here.

More than pictures, I have details in video. Please watch full length to feel the place

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